This months roundup post is for the month of November, 2016. It’s been a crazy month, but nonetheless; happy thanksgiving!

This month has been filled with tons of crazy news, and we are about to share it all with you in this months LED lighting link roundup. From insects and LEDs to towns and cities retrofitting their streetlights, we are going to cover these and many more in this edition.

Now… Here is the third addition of A Month in The LED Lighting Industry Link Roundup…

Several Cities Convert To LED Streetlights In Conservation Efforts

Listen (or read) in on this conversion where they talk about cities that have made the conversions, what it has done, and who is planning to convert next. It’s exciting stuff to hear about all of these cities making the conversion, especially since they are all saving money and producing better light.

East Lyme to begin retrofitting streetlight with LEDs

This town is making a smart move by retrofitting their streetlights throughout the town. Not only will they save in energy consumption reductions, but they will also reduce initial investment costs by Insects and LED Lights New Research

How are wildlife and insects affected by outdoor LEDs? This *video* goes over the topic, and how they may be affecting insects specifically.

LEDs Light Up Indoor Farming and Marijuana Cultivation

Marijuana growing is becoming a huge industry, and quickly too. LED technology is making growers be able to turn a better profit all while growing better crop.

LEDs come in rainbow colours

A new way to achieve various vibrant colors is making it cheaper and more efficient to do so. Learn how it’s done by reading this one!

New LEDs may offer better way to clean water in remote areas

Engineers at The Ohio State University are developing foil based LEDs which will allow people to purify water for drinking and sterilize medical equipment on the go.

Would you like to suggest an interesting piece of news or related topic to LED lighting for future publications of our lighting link roundups? Simply comment below and we will consider it for future publications!

One of the most affordable and effective components of any home security system is motion detecting outdoor lighting. Installed by a professional electrician, these lights can give you years of reliable service and peace of mind.

But like any part of your household electrical system, problems can arise from time to time. If your outdoor security lights are staying on all the time, not coming on at all or otherwise performing poorly, you can try these simple DIY fixes before calling an electrician.

Most motion detecting light fixtures allow the motion detector to be aimed at a specific area. If your lights are coming on too often, it could be that the sensor is aimed at a nearby street or an area where wildlife roam around at night. If the lights aren't coming on at all, the sensor might be aimed directly at the ground or into the side of the house. Experiment with different sensor positions after dark and walk around in the areas you want to secure to fine-tune your aim.

Motion detectors also typically come equipped with sensitivity settings. Too sensitive, and something as small as a fly could set it off. Not sensitive enough, and a prowler could come within a few feet of the fixture before it lights up. Locate this setting and fine-tune it to your liking.

Another common setting for motion detector lights is a light duration time. This can be as long as 30 minutes, and if your lights are unwittingly set this way, it could give the impression that they stay on all night. A good duration for most security light applications is one to two minutes.

A dirty sensor can’t detect movement properly. If dirt and dust have accumulated on your motion detector, use a wet rag to wipe it clean, then re-test your lights.

Security lights can get off-kilter if there are interruptions in the electrical supply, such as power outages, power surges and accidentally flipping light switches or breakers. Sometimes this can result in lights that stay on or off all the time. To reset most motion detecting lights, shut off the power supply at the switch for at least 30 seconds, making sure there’s no motion in front of the sensor during this time. Then turn the light back on and test it to ensure proper function. If there was motion in front of the sensor while the power was off, this may need to be repeated.

Not all motion detector problems can be fixed this easily. If you have persistent problems, storm damage or faulty installation, it’s important to call in your local licensed electricians for a professional evaluation and repair.

One of the main stays in Industrial and Commercial Lighting has been the Metal Halide Bulb. It is common in Indoor Fixtures, such as High Bays, Canopy Lights, Garage Lights and Low Bays. It is

So you have a Metal Halide (or even High Pressure Sodium) light, and you want to convert to LED. You’ve done your research, you’ve been inundated with marketing materials that tell you what is the most important thing to consider (coincidentally it probably is something they think is important). And now you are left to make a decision. New or retrofit? What new versus retrofit. We sell both. Our retrofits perform as well if not better than new fixtures, but not all retrofit kits can make that claim. However, if your fixtures are old, leak, and have seen their better days, then by all means replace them. It does not make sense to buy a new fixture that includes a retrofit kit inside of it like some vendors will try and sell you. The engineering of some of the new fixtures are fantastic. However, the real reason you would want to consider retrofitting is because you have a significant investment in fixtures. Why not keep that investment? Retrofitting is extremely cost effective, especially our Look for the DLC Premium Symbol, it’s different than the DLC Standard symbol. And that gives you the quick notification that the light you are looking at is the most efficient.

And why does that matter. It’s simple. It will save you a lot more money. Let me do three comparisons for you. First a retrofit kit designed at 97 lumens per watt to replace a 400W Metal Halide bulb, a second at 102 lumens per watt and ours at 155 lumens per watt. Lets keep everything else the same. Cost of electricity, hours of use. The only thing different you will notice is the watts consumed and the lumens produced. For the record, our retrofit kit uses the least amount of energy in this test BUT also produces the most amount of light. We will use 12 hours a day operating time and .12 kw.h electricity cost

Calculation 1: 97 lumens per watt retrofit head, 135 watts, 13164 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $170.82

Calculation 2: 102 lumens per watt retrofit head, 143 watts, 14600 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $166.62

OK, so between the competitor options, you are neck and neck, the difference is so minimal you can make your decision based on whose website you like more

Calculation 3: 155 lumens per watt retrofit head, 100 watts, 15,776 lumens (this is our LED Retrofit Kit)

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $189.22

So there is clearly a $18.40 savings over the first LED retrofit option and a $22.60 savings per fixture over the second LED Retrofit option. And, we produce more light!

We have 3 mini LED Retrofit Kits, 30W, 45W and 60W designed to replace up to 250W Metal Halide. We have 3 standard sized retrofit kits, 75W, 100W and 120W designed to replace from 250 Watt to 400 Watt Metal Halide. We have 2 Large Retrofit Kits, 150W and 200W, designed to provide more light than a 400W Metal Halide up to 750W Metal Halide. And we have 3 Extra Large retrofit kits, 280W, 320W and 350W, designed to replace 1000W Metal Halide.

Recessed lighting is commonly used in rooms where ceiling height is an issue. These fixtures are essentially placed flush into your ceiling and project light from a hole or an opening on an otherwise clear plane.

Often you'll find this kind of lighting in an area that utilizes dropped ceilings with removable panels. Ceilings like these are usually implemented because they are concealing pipes or wiring that is exposed beneath the original ceiling - this practice can commonly be seen in basements and industrial spaces where aesthetics weren't initially taken into consideration.

Since recessed lighting is usually exposed to the underside of sensitive wiring or pipes, there are a number of potential dangers that present themselves when these fixtures are used.

A common mistake is using recessed lighting that produces too much heat for the amount of space left between the dropped ceiling and the original. Be sure when you're installing these devices that a qualified electrician, like the kind employed by John C. Flood, verifies there is enough ventilation and room between objects that excess heat won't make the area a fire hazard.

If you notice that you have a recessed lighting fixture which is dim and periodically flickers back to full brightness, this may be a sign that the wattage of the light bulb is too powerful for the lamp. Most recessed models will have heating sensors built in that automatically dim the light to avoid flames. One solution might be to lower the strength of the bulbs that you use in these features, although the bigger problem may be that your lighting instruments themselves were installed in too close quarters.