In our new 5th Wheel RV, we received some ceiling mounted 12VDC florescent fixtures. They were equipped with 2 each 18”, 15W tubes and electronic ballasts. The fixtures are a “Low Voltage RV Luminaire” from “Direct Sourcing Alliance” identified as “Type RVL 18RNB-W”, “2 x 15W”, “Input Rating: 12V DC, 30W”. Their performance has been dismal with operation limited to, initially 30-45 minutes before shutting down due to overheating of the ballast. The “on” time got progressively shorter over the next few weeks. The overheating was certainly not due to ambient temperatures which have been in the low 70s or cooler. On disassembly for conversion to LED operation it was discovered the ballasts have discolored due to high heat (see closest end of ballast in Picture 2).

During review of options for LED conversion I was looking for a natural light color temperature with equivalent lumen output to the two 15W florescent tubes. I settled on the SuperBrightLEDs part number RLBN-NW30*3SMD which is a 19.5 inch rigid strip with 30 each 3SMD modules. The advertised light output was 603 lumin at a color temperature of 5600K. The two 18”, 15W tubes were stated to produce 825 lumins each so I was a little concerned about light loss especially since I was going to have to cut 6 LED modules off each of the two strips to fit inside the existing fixture. I bought a 3rd strip but in the end did not use it as the light was ample.

I first started by removing the “guts” of the florescent leaving some length of the switched power wires for future use. See pictures 1, 2, and 3.

After cleaning the interior of the fixture with alcohol for acrylic tape adhesion I fitted the rigid LED strips and cut 6 LED modules from the length, then mounted the strips using 3M double sided acrylic tape. Finally, completed power connections to existing fixture switch circuit. See pictures 4 through 10.

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Surely you have seen electrical outlets your entire life… but do you know how they work? Their purpose is so important, it can actually save your life. If you read our article last week, you will understand how the electricity has already arrived at the outlet. Grounded electrical outlets then take the energy from your home electrical system and make it available. Here is more about what they are and how they work.

In Canada we have the three-prong outlet that you are familiar with. The outlet’s left hole is smaller and it is the “neutral” slot. The right hole is slightly larger and this is called “hot”. The bottom hole is the “ground”. The electricity flows in a loop, traveling from hot to neutral. This means when you plug your television in the electricity will flow from the hot slot of the outlet, into your television to power it, and then out to the neutral slot.

You have probably noticed that some appliances have only two prong plugs and some have three. This is because some appliances need to be grounded. Electricity always flows towards the ground, and when the electricity flows into your body and into the ground, you experience electrocution. Instead of a body potentially absorbing this current, the grounder redirects the electrical current traveling into the outlet so you will not be hurt. Items that have metal casings, such as televisions and computers, will have their metal cases attached to the grounder so that a current will not accidentally run throughout the case and shock you when you touch it.

When electricity becomes unbalanced in the electrical outlet, the outlet will “trip” and shut off the flow of electricity. For example, if an electronic device comes into contact with water, electricity will escape into the water. Once the outlet detects that less electricity is coming into the neutral slot than what should be, it will shut down. This safeguard protects users from potential harm.

By playing or tampering with an electrical outlet, you can get hurt or severely injured. It is important to use the appropriate equipment and follow manuals before plugging in electrical devices. If you need to make changes to your electrical system you should consult a professional first.

As a car dealership owner, manager, or even sales member; you know that getting the cars out (along with in) is one of the most vital points in your business.

On top of that, keeping the expenses as low as possible to simply operate will allow you to take home more income, rather than spending it on things that are just going to waste (like energy usage).

A good example that will resolve these issues and both increase overall revenues along with decrease expenses is in your lighting. More specifically, LED vs metal halide and HPS.

This brings two major cost saving benefits.

First, it allows you to by 2-3 times less replacement lights since you won’t need to replace burnt out lights as often (because they simply last longer).

Additionally, by reducing the amount of time you need to spend replacing burnt out lights you also get to reduce the amount of time you have to pay someone to switch out and even maintain your new lighting system. This in turn gives you a “two for one” benefit with less buying of replacement lights along with reduced costs associated with hiring someone to maintain your lighting system.

LED offers various ways that it outputs higher quality light (along with operates in a higher quality “way”).

For starters, LEDs will never flicker nor buzz unlike other luminaires do. This issue in and of itself will make your lot look low quality, unprofessional, and even annoying for those walking around the lot.