Let’s say your teen is using an electric drill outside and standing with bare feet in a puddle. Not a good idea. Let’s say the drill malfunctions and leaks electricity out of its proper circuitry. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, which just might be from the drill, along arms and legs, and into the puddle. If the drill were plugged into an ordinary outlet, this could be a fatal accident.

In recent years, the National Electric Code has included requirements for special safety outlets where such accidents could happen. These special outlets are called “GFIs” (Ground Fault Interrupters) or “GFCIs” (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) — two different names for the same thing. They are required by the National Electric Code in garages, kitchens, bathrooms, pools, spas, and in some other outdoor areas where water could be present. The Electric Connection, your local Glendale electrician, can check all of your outlets for you and replace or install new GFCI’s.

A GFI, or safety outlet, detects that the current in an appliance is no longer flowing in its proper circuit. It shuts off the current within milliseconds. In the case of our teen, if the drill were plugged into a safety outlet, electrocution would be avoided — a life saved.

GFIs look different from ordinary outlets. They have two buttons labeled “Test” and “Reset.” You can check that the outlet will cut off current when needed for safety by pressing “Test.” Test should shut off current to the outlet so that the outlet no longer provides power. After the test, you can restore current to the outlet by pressing “Reset.”

Newer GFIs also have a tiny green indicator light that tells you that it’s providing power. This is a handy feature when you conduct your test. It’s also handy because from time to time, safety outlets may be triggered without your knowledge and may no longer be providing power. The absence of the green light will alert you to this situation.

A Downside

This is the downside of safety outlets — they can be tripped without your realizing, or they can become faulty and can trip repeatedly for no reason. Let’s say you have an electric toothbrush charger plugged into a safety outlet in your bathroom. The outlet has somehow been tripped and no longer provides power. If it’s equipped with a green indicator light, the light will be off. In any case, if it’s lost power, press “Reset” and power should be restored.

Another possibility is that an outlet in a kitchen, bathroom, garage, or outdoor area is not a safety outlet but is “protected” by a GFI elsewhere in the circuitry. If a non-safety outlet in your house has lost power, you can check for this situation by making sure that all the GFIs in your kitchens, bathrooms, and other areas have not been tripped and are still providing power.

Home Safety Check

Check that your kitchens, bathrooms, garage, and outdoor areas are equipped with working GFIs. (Refrigerators are incompatible with safety outlets and should not be plugged into one nor protected by safety outlets elsewhere in the circuitry.) If you have GFIs, remember that they have a limited lifespan, so press the Test button of each at least once a month to check that they shut off power as designed.

If your home doesn’t have safety outlets or they are no longer working, call a qualified electrician to get an estimate for installation. GFIs are a relatively inexpensive investment in your family’s safety.

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A lot of time we are asked what is the equivalent LED product to convert from Metal Halide, High Pressure Sodium or Mercury Vapor. And a lot of time, we have a product in mind that works based on past experience. But how did we come up with that product, and how did we make the original decision on what was the proper replacement?

There’s a lot of science that goes into light, color, quality, and each light had it’s own characteristics. For example, it takes less LED to replace High Pressure Sodium than it takes to replace Metal Halide. And we are talking a lot more than just lumens. We are talking about color temperature, quality of light and something called photopic / scotopic lumens.

In the world of lighting, we measure foot candles with a light meter, this is called a photopic measurement. The light meter picks up everything, including spectrum’s that are invisible to us. Now, we humans see things to, and this is called scotopic lumens. Our rods and cones read and interpret light. And it does so differently than what a light meter does. So it is not uncommon when we demo a LED Light against a HPS light or Metal Halide, we first ask “Which is brighter” before we show the light meter reading. It leaves a few people scratching their heads. Well, that’s the science of of it all, and fortunately there is some handy tables called SP ratios that allow us to take the lumens of a particular light (photopic lumens) and multiply it by the S/P ratio to get the scotopic lumens equivalent.

For example, the S/P ratio for High Pressure Sodium is 0.40. The S/P ratio for LED at 5000K is 1.8. So if you take 40,000 lumens of HPS and multiply it 0.4, the effective scotopic lumens is 16,000. To get the same amount of lumens from LED, take the 16,000 and divide it by the S/P ratio and you get 8888 lumens. So the 8888 lumens of LED is the photopic measurement, the 16,000 LED lumens is the scotopic lumens measurement. So in an nutshell, you need 8,888 lumens of LED to replace 40,000 lumens of HPS from a scotopic point of view.

Here is a handy chart of common lights and ratios for you to use.