Are you dealing with frequently flickering lights? Do your circuit breakers trip often when you turn on large appliances? Does your home have several two-pronged outlets that do not accommodate today’s three-pronged plugs for most electrical appliances? If you answered yes to any of these questions, your home more than likely needs a heavy up, which is an increase in the power of your main electrical service. For example, we can transition your home from lower amperage to either 200 or 400 amps.

Homes without Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) outlets in the bathrooms, kitchens, or garages also need to be upgraded. This is a type of outlet that protects against electrical shocks. GFI outlets are required in most states, and homeowners in MD, VA, and DC should change all older version outlets to GFI outlets. A GFI outlet has two buttons, including a test button and a reset button, and the outlets turns the power off before a shock can occur. It is especially important that GFI outlets are installed in any area of your home where water flows—bathrooms, kitchens, outdoor areas. The outlet will sense when there is a potentially dangerous imbalance in the flow of electricity from the outlet to whatever is plugged and will shut off to prevent shocks or electrocution.

Many older homes in the area were constructed with aluminum wiring. When these homes were built, aluminum wiring was considered safe to use and viewed as a cost-saving measure. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) now believes aluminum wiring poses a safety hazard in homes that still have this type of wiring.

The biggest danger associated with aluminum wiring is that unanticipated fire hazards arise from the rusting and deterioration caused at the points where aluminum wiring is connected at outlets, light fixtures, and splices. Call us so an expert electrician can evaluate whether or not this is a problem in your home and take steps to transition your home from aluminum to copper wiring.

If you live in an older MD, VA, or DC home, contact Kolb Electric today. We strongly recommend that you avoid attempting any electrical upgrades or repairs on your own as this can be very dangerous. Electrical upgrades are best left to a professional, licensed electrician.

If a ceiling fan has stopped working, has begun vibrating, or is not operating correctly, it may be wasting electricity; or worse, it may represent an electrical hazard. In this case, it is typically best to have a professional electrician install a replacement.

Sometimes a fan works fine, but a different model presents a more desirable appearance or more attractive features. While many homeowners are capable of installing a new fan themselves, we always recommend a professional installation by a qualified and experienced professional electrician. The reasons are many, but the most important reason is safety. Besides this, many homeowners installing their own fans damage the fans when dropping them, or fail to make sure their new fans are installed so the blades are balanced and operate smoothly, quietly, and efficiently. Other problems can occur when correct wiring connections are not made.

If you need a professional ceiling fan installation, please call Bryant Electric Service at 512-402-8587. Our licensed electricians are very experienced at installing ceiling fans, and are properly equipped for this type of service.

This Old House on how to use them in your home application.

1. THEY SAVE ENERGY

Yes, you’ve heard it a million times, but it’s true – LED is changing the future of lighting around the world. Residential LEDs — especially ENERGY STAR rated products — use at least 75% less energy, and last 25 times longer, than standard incandescent lights. They are also used in developing countries with no access to electricity to help people study, complete tasks and increase their own safety.

2. THEY ARE GREAT FOR COMMERCIAL USE AND RESIDENCES ALIKE

LED technology is advancing so rapidly that there is hardly an application not suited for it.  Because of their highly efficient and directional nature, LEDs are ideal for many industrial uses. You have most certainly seen them used in in street and roadway lights, parking garages, parks and stadiums, refrigerated case lighting, modular lighting, and task lighting.

Let’s face it—halogen and incandescent headlight bulbs are a thing of the past. fanless, driverless LED headlight bulbs were used in this installation.

If your vehicle allows for horizontal adjustments, mark the distance between your headlight centers with two vertical lines of tape. These lines are important for projector headlights and/or lining up beam cutoff points. Repeat these tape lines for your other headlight.

6. Remove your headlight assembly if necessary, remove the current bulbs, and install your new LED bulbs. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions on how to replace your headlight bulbs.

7. Depending on your vehicle, you may have to adjust your headlight beam before or after the assembly has been reinstalled. Your owner’s manual will explain how to adjust the beams. Align each headlight so that the top edge of the beam is at the same height as your horizontal line(s). If your headlights can be adjusted horizontally or produce two light cutoff points, use the vertical tape lines to align them properly.

3. Shake the vehicle to ensure that your suspension system is settled. For more precise adjustments, inflate all tires to their designated psi capacity and have someone sit in the driver’s seat. Also, make sure that your vehicle’s gas tank is at least half full.

4. Measure from the ground to the center of your headlight assembly where the bulb is located. This step must be done for all vehicles. If your vehicle allows for horizontal headlight adjustments in addition to vertical adjustments, it’s important that you also measure the distance between the centers of both headlight bulbs. The vehicle featured in this video allows for vertical headlight adjustments only; therefore, center lines aren’t necessary but are shown for demonstration purposes.

5. Turn on your low-beam headlights. Using painter’s tape, mark your headlight measurements on a flat wall. Measure from the ground up, and apply a horizontal line of tape to the wall; this line represents the top of your headlight beam. You can either apply one long, continuous line or small sections where the brightest areas of the headlight beams are shown.

If your vehicle allows for horizontal adjustments, mark the distance between your headlight centers with two vertical lines of tape. These lines are important for projector headlights and/or lining up beam cutoff points.