Transforming a basement into livable space is a big deal. It requires a lot of planning, work and execution. If you have a basement, you have a lot of space down there that you could be using to entertain, as bedrooms or simply to add value to your home. When done correctly and up to code, your basement can count towards the total square footage of your home. Every additional square foot adds anywhere from $50 to $200 to your total value depending on where you live. An electrician in Glendale, like those at The Electric Connection, can help you get that remodel underway and up to code in no time.

Basements are generally already wired with electricity, but the lack of walls, ceiling and more than a cement floor are an issue. Once you add flooring and put in a ceiling, the ceiling height tends to be a bit smaller than the average. However, it is still functional and as long as it meets the building code, you can make it work. Now, basements tend to be dark, but you can change that with the installation of recessed lights by an electrician. Glendale homeowners will not have to worry about losing any head room with these lights because they are flush with the ceiling.

You can add several lights that will really brighten up the space. Whether you are transforming your basement into a den or the ultimate game room, you want to preserve as much ceiling space as possible while providing plenty of light. If you are dividing the area into separate rooms, your Glendale electrician can add the wiring needed for the outlets as well as the light switches needed to operate the lights in each space. A basement remodel is a fun project that is rewarding and will provide an excellent return on your investment. Give The Electric Connection a call today and schedule your lighting installation.

While it can be nice cuddle up once in a while in front of a roaring fire, any warm-and-fuzzy feelings quickly dissipate when your electric bill arrives. While your chimney lets smoke out, it also lets cold air in. So if you do want to use your fireplace, try and do so sparingly, and take the time to turn down the thermostat first.

It’s easy, affordable and a no-brainer – air leaks in windows, doors, plumbing and wiring let warm air out, but most of these problems can be easily fixed with a few minutes of time and a few dollars’ worth of materials. Apply caulking or weather-stripping material to windows and consider investing in a backdoor sweep if drafty doors are sucking the warmth from your home.

One of the main stays in Industrial and Commercial Lighting has been the Metal Halide Bulb. It is common in Indoor Fixtures, such as High Bays, Canopy Lights, Garage Lights and Low Bays. It is

So you have a Metal Halide (or even High Pressure Sodium) light, and you want to convert to LED. You’ve done your research, you’ve been inundated with marketing materials that tell you what is the most important thing to consider (coincidentally it probably is something they think is important). And now you are left to make a decision. New or retrofit? What new versus retrofit. We sell both. Our retrofits perform as well if not better than new fixtures, but not all retrofit kits can make that claim. However, if your fixtures are old, leak, and have seen their better days, then by all means replace them. It does not make sense to buy a new fixture that includes a retrofit kit inside of it like some vendors will try and sell you. The engineering of some of the new fixtures are fantastic. However, the real reason you would want to consider retrofitting is because you have a significant investment in fixtures. Why not keep that investment? Retrofitting is extremely cost effective, especially our Look for the DLC Premium Symbol, it’s different than the DLC Standard symbol. And that gives you the quick notification that the light you are looking at is the most efficient.

And why does that matter. It’s simple. It will save you a lot more money. Let me do three comparisons for you. First a retrofit kit designed at 97 lumens per watt to replace a 400W Metal Halide bulb, a second at 102 lumens per watt and ours at 155 lumens per watt. Lets keep everything else the same. Cost of electricity, hours of use. The only thing different you will notice is the watts consumed and the lumens produced. For the record, our retrofit kit uses the least amount of energy in this test BUT also produces the most amount of light. We will use 12 hours a day operating time and .12 kw.h electricity cost

Calculation 1: 97 lumens per watt retrofit head, 135 watts, 13164 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $170.82

Calculation 2: 102 lumens per watt retrofit head, 143 watts, 14600 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $166.62

OK, so between the competitor options, you are neck and neck, the difference is so minimal you can make your decision based on whose website you like more

Calculation 3: 155 lumens per watt retrofit head, 100 watts, 15,776 lumens (this is our LED Retrofit Kit)

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $189.22

So there is clearly a $18.40 savings over the first LED retrofit option and a $22.60 savings per fixture over the second LED Retrofit option. And, we produce more light!

We have 3 mini LED Retrofit Kits, 30W, 45W and 60W designed to replace up to 250W Metal Halide. We have 3 standard sized retrofit kits, 75W, 100W and 120W designed to replace from 250 Watt to 400 Watt Metal Halide. We have 2 Large Retrofit Kits, 150W and 200W, designed to provide more light than a 400W Metal Halide up to 750W Metal Halide. And we have 3 Extra Large retrofit kits, 280W, 320W and 350W, designed to replace 1000W Metal Halide.