An electric conduit is electrical tubing used for protection and routing of electrical wiring. They can be made from a variety of materials, such as: plastic, metal, fiber and fired clay, all depending on the purpose it is being used for. It is generally installed by electricians at the electrical equipment’s installation site. The regulations governing the conduits’ use, form and installation details are specified by the US National Electrical Code (NEC).

Conduit is used as a general term to describe any system that contains electrical conductors. The conduit systems are installed for the following reasons:

To operate as pull outlets for the conductors that are being installed Make 90° bends in conduit runs

Types of Conduits

Conduit systems are classified based on the material used to make the tubing, mechanical stiffness and wall thickness. The material is selected for mechanical protection and corrosion resistance after taking into consideration the cost factor. There are special guidelines to be followed for wiring equipment in hazardous areas that need prior approval. Based on these factors, we examine a few prominent conduits:

Form 35/5/85 ex. Appleton LB400M

The Form 35 is used for malleable iron unilets as they have high tensile strength and ductility along with high corrosion and shock resistance. With the easy inbuilt rollers of type C (1-1/4” thru 4”) and type LB (1-1/4” thru 4”), these type of conduits help eliminate the damage when cable is pulled through the hubs. Form 5 has inbuilt rollers on all 11⁄4 to 4 C and LB bodies to facilitate wire pulling.

Form 7 ex. Crouse hind LB37

The Form 7 ex. Crouse hind LB37 is compatible with rigid and intermediate conduits for indoor as well as outdoor installation. It is made of cast iron or cast aluminium for a long life. It is extremely suitable for compact installations with rigidly threaded conduits of various shapes and sizes. The Form 7 has an exclusive snap tight and wedgenut cover attachment to provide clear, unhindered cover opening.

Mogul ex. Appleton BLB400m

The Mogul ex. Appleton BLB400m has a large body size that facilitates pulling of large and heavy conductors and are used as cast covers for providing additional wiring area. These are best used for pulling straight, 45° or 90° angle turns as well as for making taps and splices.

Form 8 ex. Crouse LB38

The Form 8 ex. Crouse LB38 is a 1” rigidly threaded conduit without cover and gasket made of Feraloy iron alloy. It is useful for indoor and outdoor use and comes in sizes ½” through 4”.

Form 9 ex. Crouse LB39

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A backup generator supplies electricity during a power outage, typically for brief periods. The electrical capacity of a backup generator is directly related to the cost, so buyers must carefully calculate their electric requirements when making their purchase decision. The operation of power generators involves significant safety considerations.

The fuel supply for a backup generator is usually gasoline, propane or natural gas. A backup generator connects directly to the house’s main power supply. A transfer switch on the generator detects a power loss and automatically turns the generator on. This allows the house to have electricity during the power outage with minimal interruption. The transfer switch also turns the generator off when it detects power from the house’s main power supply. Backup generators typically run regular self-tests automatically to ensure these power transfers occur smoothly.

The power of a deck of generator must be greater than its maximum total load when the generator starts up. This generally requires you to add the running our of all the electrical appliances you wish to operate at the same time. You must also add the startup power of your largest appliance to this total, typically an air conditioner or furnace. The startup wattage should be listed on the appliance and is typically three to five times the running wattage of the appliance. You can also calculate an appliance’s power requirement by multiplying its amperage by its voltage.

Backup generators do not typically supply power for the entire house; rather, they usually just supply power for essential needs. A 20,000-watt generator will typically be needed to run an entire home and usually costs about $7,000. A 10,000-watt generator is adequate for a small home or job site, and typically costs about $5,500. Backup generators for emergency purposes only can be substantially smaller.

The biggest risk of operating a backup generator is that it produces carbon monoxide as an exhaust gas. Backup generators were responsible for 85 deaths by carbon monoxide in 2005, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission. It is essential that the backup generator is outside when it is running, preferably at a distance of at least 10 feet. Gasoline engines produce much more carbon monoxide than those that run on propane or natural gas.

Electricity and fire hazards are also important safety considerations when operating a backup generator. You generally need to plug the electrical clients is directly into the generator using heavy-duty extension cords rated for exterior use. A single extension cord should also connect the generator to the transfer switch.

Having an electrical problem is never going to be a good time. We rely on electricity for nearly everything, and so it’s quite understandable that you’re looking for service in a hurry. But before you go rushing in, the experts at Hoffman Electrical have some things to say. Getting a cost-effective electrician is great, but there’s a fine line between cost-effective and cheap!