Everyone probably knows light layering is the #1 rule in residential lighting design, but we can often neglect it in professional settings. Light layers can transform that standard gloomy, fluorescent malaise into something calm and energizing.

2. Take the layers outside too! The center’s entryway functions like a beacon in the night with those stylish ceiling lights, along with Image via CONTEMPORIST.com

If your business has a storefront or entryway, don’t neglect eye-catching light layers there either. You want to draw customers in, not scare them away.

3. Use standard fixtures in unexpected ways. A regular fixture in an unexpected place will be avant-garde, without the price tag of an avant-garde light fixture. Image via CONTEMPORIST.com

I’d also like to note those crazy recessed ceiling lights – totally echoing a standard recessed fixture only stylized and amplified. It makes you rethink the whole concept of a regular old recessed light!

Electricity may either be connected by 230 or 240 volts (these are called single phase circuits that are installed in most residential applications), or 400 & 415 Volts (3-phase). The latter are typically best-suited to provide power to heavy-duty appliances and equipment and in industrial settings as well as larger commercial applications.

Some people have electric kilns installed in their homes or garages because they indulge in making pottery or ceramics products. Certain homes have very elaborate and large, ducted air-conditioning systems. In all these situations, a 3-phase circuit would be required to support this heavy power usage.

The type of circuit used is dependent in the equipment or appliances installed on your property. It is important that you check the power & voltage requirements of the installations properly, before deciding what type of circuits you need. In most instances, even massive ovens and high energy-consuming heaters are typically singe-phase.

This current in amps has to be multiplied by the voltage to give you the power in watts. If a 3-phase supply is available, the total voltage of 24,000 watts will be divided by 3; this means 8000 watts will be used in each phase. This means the current in each phase is lower than 1/3rd of what it generally is in a single phase power supply (about 30 amps in each phase instead of 100).

The aspect to keep in view here is that if you have a 3-phase electrical connection, you will end up paying higher connection fees for it. In addition, you would have to pay fixed annual charges for 3-phase as well, so you shouldn’t be considering it for your new home unless it’s really needed.

Depending on the locality you live in, your property may also be connected to a SWER electrical line and many country areas have them. The SWER (single wire, earth return) delivers single-phase power. It is a very economical way of power distribution since it requires only a single transmission or active line. The earth is used as the return conductor and there is no neutral line.

In case you need to use any 3-phase motors in these settings, you would have to get a single-phase to 3-phase converter installed. Choosing the right phase is crucial to the optimal working of your equipment and for the safety of your property as well.

Our hope is for Light Reading to be a place you can come for inspiration and guidance as you plan your next lighting project.

The thing is, we are incredibly inspired by our readers!  Your kind words, and contributions to “11 Beautiful Photos of Under Cabinet Lighting”

11 Beautiful Photos of Under Cabinet Lighting: This one definitely falls under the “inspiration” category, but it can also be helpful if you’re trying to determine what type of under cabinet lighting is your favorite for the kitchen. Puck? Linear? LED? Fluorescent? Be prepared to gaze at dreamy kitchens. “How To Have Great Lighting In a Rental”

Here’s How To Map Out Your Recessed Lights (An Infographic): Those who decide to add recessed lighting to a new or existing home are presented with a seemingly impossible task – laying them out on a blueprint. This infographic will clue you in on what every lighting designer knows about recessed lighting placement. You’ll be ready to install in no time. Read More >>

We all know or at least heard that converting from Metal Halide (High Intensity Discharge) to LED will save you money.

But how much? Are there any other reasons or difference you should know about?

In this article, we break down all the factors that you should be aware of before making a decision to convert from Metal Halide to LED. Here are the 9 reasons we think LED wins over Metal Halide.

Let’s take a look at the information on a typical 400 watt metal halide bulb. While specifications may vary, a visit to a popular online website that sells Metal Halide bulbs shows that a brand new bulb has the following specifications:

We have just as many customers wanting to convert to LED because of maintenance savings as they do for energy savings. Think about what we discussed, over the life of the LED retrofit kit, a customer would have to do 5-6 Metal Halide replacements. The higher the installation height, the higher the cost of replacement. And if you have a facility loaded with lights, this becomes a significant budget amount every year that you must take into consideration. Now, we know that reduced maintenance time on lights does not translate into dollars saved because it is highly unlikely that people will lose their jobs over the fact there is much less work to do. However, these people will have time to now work on things that matter, like fixing the machines that make the company money instead on replacing lights that cost the company money.

When you take a measurement of light with a light meter, it reads lumens. And this measurement of all the lights that contribute to the light at that location creates a measurement called foot candles. But let’s think about that light that is being measured. Metal Halide creates all sorts of light, in all spectrum’s, visible or otherwise. This includes UV and IR spectrum’s, visible to the measuring device but not visible to the human eye. LED, on the other hand, does not produce UV and IR. Therefore, its readings using the same light meter is only picking up visible spectrum’s.

So there is a fun little test you can do. Have 2 light sources, LED and Metal Halide. And first ask, which one is brighter? And if the right LED source was selected, they should say LED. And then use a light meter, and the light meter may say the Metal Halide area is producing more foot candles. And so now you know part of the reason, but wait, there’s 2 other pieces of information you need to know.

Click here to see our infographic on Retrofitting vs Replacing.

Conclusion