Electric cars are all the rage these days. They promise savings to consumers, who can install charging stations in their homes with the help of an electrician and dramatically their gasoline bills. Electric cars also give Americans a way to feel good about helping the environment, since they don't burn up petroleum or contribute to carbon emissions when they are being driven. A recent study, however, showed that we still have a long way to go when it comes to realizing the promise of electric cars – contrary to expectations, electric cars can actually create more pollution than gasoline-fueled vehicles. Read on to learn why.

The Electric Generation Conundrum

When electric vehicles are touted as emission-free, a key part of the equation is being omitted: the electricity to power them still has to be created somehow, and most of the power generation in the United States is based on fossil fuels like coal and natural gas. In some areas of the country, it turns out, the pollution created by generating the electricity for electric cars actually outweighs that which would be emitted by traditional gasoline automobiles.

The study, performed by the National Bureau of Economic Research, measured carbon, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen, particulate matter and volatile organic chemicals. Through a complicated formula, they compared the output of those pollutants from regional power grids, measured for the amount of electricity it takes to power electric vehicles, compared to what would be produced by the equivalent gasoline cars.

Gasoline vs. Electricity

What researchers found was sobering – while gasoline vehicles tend to produce a lot of pollution that is concentrated in urban areas, electric vehicles create pollution spread out over entire regions. The effect is particularly acute in the Midwest and Northeastern United States, where power plants don't use as many renewable energy sources compared to those in the West. The upshot? As it stands now, we are currently creating more air pollution for large swaths of the country by driving electric cars than we are saving.

The discouraging results of this study notwithstanding, that doesn't mean that it's time to give up on electric cars altogether. After all, electricity doesn't have to be produced by fossil fuels-- the amount of solar and wind generation is only growing, for example. If you install solar panels on your own roof, you can reassure yourself that you are creating green energy to offset the electricity you use in your car.

Question Your Assumptions

If there's one thing that's clear from the study results, it's that you shouldn't just make assumptions when it comes to energy conservation and pollution – not everything is as simple as it looks at first.

If you need help determining if your home is suitable for an electric car hookup, contact an expert electrician today.

One of the main stays in Industrial and Commercial Lighting has been the Metal Halide Bulb. It is common in Indoor Fixtures, such as High Bays, Canopy Lights, Garage Lights and Low Bays. It is

So you have a Metal Halide (or even High Pressure Sodium) light, and you want to convert to LED. You’ve done your research, you’ve been inundated with marketing materials that tell you what is the most important thing to consider (coincidentally it probably is something they think is important). And now you are left to make a decision. New or retrofit? What new versus retrofit. We sell both. Our retrofits perform as well if not better than new fixtures, but not all retrofit kits can make that claim. However, if your fixtures are old, leak, and have seen their better days, then by all means replace them. It does not make sense to buy a new fixture that includes a retrofit kit inside of it like some vendors will try and sell you. The engineering of some of the new fixtures are fantastic. However, the real reason you would want to consider retrofitting is because you have a significant investment in fixtures. Why not keep that investment? Retrofitting is extremely cost effective, especially our Look for the DLC Premium Symbol, it’s different than the DLC Standard symbol. And that gives you the quick notification that the light you are looking at is the most efficient.

And why does that matter. It’s simple. It will save you a lot more money. Let me do three comparisons for you. First a retrofit kit designed at 97 lumens per watt to replace a 400W Metal Halide bulb, a second at 102 lumens per watt and ours at 155 lumens per watt. Lets keep everything else the same. Cost of electricity, hours of use. The only thing different you will notice is the watts consumed and the lumens produced. For the record, our retrofit kit uses the least amount of energy in this test BUT also produces the most amount of light. We will use 12 hours a day operating time and .12 kw.h electricity cost

Calculation 1: 97 lumens per watt retrofit head, 135 watts, 13164 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $170.82

Calculation 2: 102 lumens per watt retrofit head, 143 watts, 14600 lumens

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $166.62

OK, so between the competitor options, you are neck and neck, the difference is so minimal you can make your decision based on whose website you like more

Calculation 3: 155 lumens per watt retrofit head, 100 watts, 15,776 lumens (this is our LED Retrofit Kit)

Savings per fixture per year over 400 watt Metal Halide: $189.22

So there is clearly a $18.40 savings over the first LED retrofit option and a $22.60 savings per fixture over the second LED Retrofit option. And, we produce more light!

We have 3 mini LED Retrofit Kits, 30W, 45W and 60W designed to replace up to 250W Metal Halide. We have 3 standard sized retrofit kits, 75W, 100W and 120W designed to replace from 250 Watt to 400 Watt Metal Halide. We have 2 Large Retrofit Kits, 150W and 200W, designed to provide more light than a 400W Metal Halide up to 750W Metal Halide. And we have 3 Extra Large retrofit kits, 280W, 320W and 350W, designed to replace 1000W Metal Halide.

With the kind of Maryland weather we’ve been having this month, you’d think we live in a subtropical climate! And while steady rain can be relaxing and good for those of us who raise a garden, it can pose some risks as well. What risks? Well, there’s always the usual dangers of a storm, but what we specifically want to cover is water damaged wiring.

The certified electricians at Kolb Electric take your safety and the safety of your home seriously, so if you’re at risk for damaged wiring, we want you to know what to do! Suspect you may have water damaged wiring in your home or business? Contact Kolb today!

You hear us going on and on about the dangers of electrical equipment, but we do this for a reason. It only takes a split-second mistake and zap; you’re in some serious trouble! Left alone, water-damaged electrical wiring can:

If and only if you have had submerged wires that have since dried out, and these wires have been totally shut off (at the breaker in the electrical panel) you may be able to utilize heavy-duty work gloves to move the wires. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS. Only do this if leaving the wire poses an immediate risk that must be resolved. Otherwise, just let the experts do it. Never take chances that may harm you or someone else.

Having trouble with your wiring after the downpours we’ve been dealing with here in Maryland? Contact the specialists at Kolb to get the repair and replacement you need!

The kitchen is one of the busiest and most heavily-used rooms in your home. When it comes to fires, it’s also perhaps the most dangerous. With various fluids being used, such as oils and water, along with electrical appliances, heat sources, and more, it doesn’t take much for a simple mistake to lead to a potentially devastating blaze suddenly bursting to life. When it comes to kitchen safety, knowledge and care can go a long way, as can preparation should a fire ever start. Check out these valuable tips for learning how to avoid electrical fires in the kitchen and how to deal with one that starts.

The kitchen frequently uses water, oils, greases, and other substances alongside electricity in numerous situations. Your appliances all likely run on electricity, including your refrigerator, garbage disposal, dishwasher, and possibly even your stove and oven. While most of these devices are designed to keep all potentially-sensitive electronics away from any possibly damaging fluids, you likely still have exposed electrical plugs, extension cords, and more running along your countertops.

It doesn’t take much for a kitchen fire to start. Perhaps the most common type is a grease fire. If you ever work with hot oil on the stovetop, you’re probably well aware of how dangerous this substance is. In addition to having an extremely high burn risk, a single spark could cause a grease or oil source to quickly ignite, becoming a massive and difficult to deal with ordeal. This means you should be extremely cautious when using electricity to cook. Regularly inspect your plugs and cords for any signs of wear or fraying, and you should immediately stop using a device if you find any exposed copper at all—the risk of a potential fire far outweighs the cost of replacing a broken appliance.

Your microwave is a particularly interesting appliance in that it reacts violently with any metal placed inside it. If you’re not paying attention, it’s not difficult to accidentally stick something that isn’t microwave-safe in there, and usually by the time you figure it out it’s already too late.

If a fire does erupt in your microwave, opening the door should NEVER be the first thing you do. Fires need oxygen to breathe, and opening the door allows the oxygen to get in quickly, allowing the fire to grow and spread, and your problem will only get worse. Instead, the first thing you should do is unplug the device if possible and allow the fire to suffocate itself and go out before opening the door. Before you do, be prepared to dial 911.

Putting out a fire in your kitchen is rarely as easy as throwing water on it. In fact, in most cases water actually makes the problem worse. If you have an electrical fire, throwing water on it will probably only encourage more sparking and increase the chances of injury by electrocution. If you have a grease fire, throwing water on it will only cause the grease to splatter and continue to burn, potentially spreading the fire further (after all, water and oil don’t mix).

If you have a grease fire in your kitchen, the best way to put it out is to smother it and deprive it of oxygen. If the fire is contained in a pan, the best way to smother it is to use a metal lid to cover the pan and cut off the oxygen supply. If you don’t have a metal lid, a large baking sheet will do the job. Just make sure you use oven mitts or some other form of hand protection when you finally remove it. If the fire spreads outside the pan, cover it with salt or baking soda to quickly and effectively put the fire out. These substances are made from non-flammable material, and will quickly cover and suffocate the fire from oxygen if applied properly. Electrical fires can generally be fought the same way, but you should always move to unplug the device first if possible. You don’t want to keep sending electricity through a short any longer than you have to.

Finally, every kitchen should have a fire extinguisher in it. If you don’t, pick up a small Class B or Class ABC unit from your local hardware store (they’re not very expensive). These devices are approved to fight grease and kitchen fires because the retardant they use is dry, thus meaning you won’t have to worry about splattering that you would otherwise face with a different type.

A significant number of homes in Baltimore and Bethesda, MD, Alexandria, VA, and Washington, DC built between the mid-1960s and the first half of the 1970s have hazardous aluminum wiring rather than copper. During that time, aluminum wiring was considered safe to use and viewed as a cost-saving measure. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) now believes aluminum wiring poses a safety hazard in homes that still have this type of wiring.

The biggest danger associated with aluminum wiring is that unanticipated fire hazards arise from the oxidation and deterioration caused at the points where aluminum wiring is connected at outlets, light fixtures, and splices. While this can cause overheating and arching that won’t trip a circuit breaker, it can cause a fire. Aluminum wiring was used in an estimated 2 million homes between 1965 and 1973—and many of these homes are located in the MD, VA, and DC area.

If you’re concerned about dangerous aluminum wiring, pay attention to the following warning signs:

All of these signs indicate a potential fire hazard for standard aluminum wiring.

Aluminum wiring should be thoroughly evaluated by a qualified electrician who is experienced in inspecting and correcting wiring problems. The CPSC recommends a few methods for correction. The first is to rewire the home with copper wire, an expensive option that really only makes sense if the homeowner is already in the process of completely remodeling or doing deep renovations. The second option is to use the Copalum crimp method to correct the problem. This involves attaching a piece of copper wire to the existing aluminum wire with a specially designed metal sleeve and powered crimping tool. It is a permanent repair option that will eliminate the dangers posed by aluminum wiring. A third option is to use a UL listed copper to aluminum connector to attach a copper wire to the existing aluminum wire.

Only an experienced electrician can accurately determine the level of danger a home with aluminum wiring faces, and then fix the problem in an efficient, timely manner.

If your home has aluminum wiring, we recommend that you call Kolb Electric or contact us online. We will send one of our expert electricians out to evaluate the aluminum wiring in your home to determine the best option to make your home as safe as possible. We’ve been serving Baltimore and Bethesda, MD as well as Alexandria, VA and Washington, DC since 1925. You can count on our experienced electricians to get the job done right the first time.