5-pin SPDT (single pole, double throw) automotive relay.

Relays are essentially two parts in one package. The first part is an inductive coil (pins 85 and 86). This coil is the “trigger” function of the relay. By applying both a positive (+) and ground (-) to the contacts, current passes through the coil. When current passes through the coil, a magnetic field is generated and moves the switch (the arrow in the diagram). This is where the second part of the relay comes into play.

The second part of the relay is the “switch.” The switch has three interface contacts—common, normally closed, and normally open. “Normally” refers to the state of the relay not being energized.

While relays can be used for virtually any task, there are some very useful, simple applications for adding LED lighting to a vehicle. Please note that this wiring only pertains to the relay—not the wires in the vehicle. Before interfacing with a wire in a vehicle, always ensure you test the wire with a digital multimeter first to confirm circuit function.

Positive Switching

Positive switching is used for applications where the “trigger” for your switch or circuit is positive. This could be an ignition, brake, or reverse light wire for example.  This could be used for applications such as off-road light bars, work lights, additional brake lights, and other exterior lighting.

Negative Switching

Negative switching is used for applications where the “trigger” for your switch or circuit is negative. Negative triggers are often found in door, hatch, and trunk triggers as well as many interior switches. This could be used for applications such as footwell lighting, truck bed lighting, under-hood lighting, and other interior lighting.

Switch Activated With Ignition Override

This is useful for applications where you want to turn your light on or off with a switch but only want the light to remain on when the car is running or key is in the “ignition” position. The main advantage to this is—even if the switch is left on—the light (or output circuit) will shut off when the key is turned off so that the battery will not be run down.

For technical questions, don’t hesitate to call us toll free at 866-590-3533. Our customer service and technical support teams are available from 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. CDT Monday-Thursday and 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. CDT on Friday.

Let’s face it—halogen and incandescent headlight bulbs are a thing of the past. fanless, driverless LED headlight bulbs were used in this installation.

If your vehicle allows for horizontal adjustments, mark the distance between your headlight centers with two vertical lines of tape. These lines are important for projector headlights and/or lining up beam cutoff points. Repeat these tape lines for your other headlight.

6. Remove your headlight assembly if necessary, remove the current bulbs, and install your new LED bulbs. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions on how to replace your headlight bulbs.

7. Depending on your vehicle, you may have to adjust your headlight beam before or after the assembly has been reinstalled. Your owner’s manual will explain how to adjust the beams. Align each headlight so that the top edge of the beam is at the same height as your horizontal line(s). If your headlights can be adjusted horizontally or produce two light cutoff points, use the vertical tape lines to align them properly.

3. Shake the vehicle to ensure that your suspension system is settled. For more precise adjustments, inflate all tires to their designated psi capacity and have someone sit in the driver’s seat. Also, make sure that your vehicle’s gas tank is at least half full.

4. Measure from the ground to the center of your headlight assembly where the bulb is located. This step must be done for all vehicles. If your vehicle allows for horizontal headlight adjustments in addition to vertical adjustments, it’s important that you also measure the distance between the centers of both headlight bulbs. The vehicle featured in this video allows for vertical headlight adjustments only; therefore, center lines aren’t necessary but are shown for demonstration purposes.

5. Turn on your low-beam headlights. Using painter’s tape, mark your headlight measurements on a flat wall. Measure from the ground up, and apply a horizontal line of tape to the wall; this line represents the top of your headlight beam. You can either apply one long, continuous line or small sections where the brightest areas of the headlight beams are shown.

If your vehicle allows for horizontal adjustments, mark the distance between your headlight centers with two vertical lines of tape. These lines are important for projector headlights and/or lining up beam cutoff points.

These LED vaporproof light fixtures are only compatible with From top to bottom: fixtures with cool white, natural white, and warm white ballast-bypass LED T8 tube light bulbs

The weatherproof fixture is dust tight as well as water and impact resistant with a shatterproof polycarbonate lens. A water-tight cord connector, quick-connect wiring adapter, T8 sockets, housing clips, and surface-mount brackets are included. The T8 LED vaporproof light fixture operates within a 100-277V AC range and is covered by a lifetime warranty (fixture only).

Why do breakers trip? Have you ever turned on the vacuum or started the microwave while the toaster was in operation and experienced a tripped breaker? If you have ever dealt with a breaker that trips, you are probably wondering why it happened and want to know what that means for the safety of your home. An electrician in Pasadena is here to explain. You can learn more by calling The Electric Connection.

First of all, it is important to explain what a tripped breaker really is. Your breaker panel is probably located outside or in a hallway or basement area. When a breaker trips, it cuts off all flow of electricity to the outlets and light fixtures that the particular breaker supplies electricity to. When looking at the breaker panel, the tripped breaker will be slightly in the middle instead of all the way left or right. An orange bar is usually used to indicate which breaker has tripped.

As far as why the breaker trips, there are 3 main reasons • Short Circuit

An overloaded circuit is probably one of the most common reasons. If your breaker isn’t powerful enough to run several appliances at once, like the microwave, vacuum and toaster, it becomes overloaded and shuts down. You can address this by distributing your electrical draw to different outlets that are run by different breakers or by having your Pasadena electrical system investigated. You may be in need of additional breakers. A ground fault or short circuit are much more dangerous than an overloaded circuit. Breakers that have bare wires or a bad connection can cause fires. If you don’t see anything out of the ordinary, but are still having trouble with a tripping breaker, give the folks at The Electric Connection a call.