constant-current LED driver or constant-current driver is used to regulate the amount of current that is supplied to an LED or LED array to maximize LED lifetime. If current is not regulated, LED brightness can fluctuate and life span can be shortened. The constant-current driver is used for LEDs or light fixtures that require a stable output current and operate within a range of voltages. Most finished LED products already have a constant-current driver or resistors to regulate current. If you’re building an LED fixture or replacing a constant-current driver, it’s important to verify that the output current and voltage of the driver is compatible with the LEDs’ current and voltage. If your LED product already has a constant-current driver or uses resistors in the LED array, you might need a constant-voltage power supply.

If your LEDs are dimmable and you want to change their brightness, choose a Magnitude Dimmable Power Supplies. These dimmable power supplies work by varying the power on the AC input side of the power supply by means of a TRIAC dimmer. This change in power on the AC input side will vary the voltage on the DC output side and control the intensity of the LEDs. TRIAC dimmers are common hardware store and household dimmers, which include brand names such as Lutron and Leviton.

Pulse-Width Modulation Dimming: Pulse-width modulation (PWM) dimming can be used to control dimmable power supplies such as Mean Well LPF Series. This type of dimming control adjusts the output current based on the duty cycle. As the duty cycle increases, current will increase and the LEDs will be brighter. Conversely, if the duty cycle decreases, the current will decrease and the LEDs will be dimmer. Pulse-width modulation for these drivers is based on a 10-volt signal level with a frequency between 100Hz-3KHz. The MLD-5A are compatible for this application.

Resistive Dimming: Resistive dimming can be used to control dimmable power supplies such as 12-Volt Mean Well HLG-40-240 Series or 12-Volt Mean Well HLG-600 Series or here.

The efficiency of a power supply or driver indicates the percentage of power that goes toward making your LED product function. An efficiency of 80 percent or higher is recommended for operating LEDs. 

When choosing a driver or power supply, the size of an LED product’s housing or area of installation is important. If you wish to put a constant-current LED driver inside of a product, the driver must be small enough to fit in the product’s housing. Similarly, if the driver or power supply is used outside of the product’s housing, it should fit the area of installation. Drivers and power supplies are available in a variety of sizes to suit your needs.

A Class 2 driver or power supply is in accordance with limited power levels defined by the National Electric Code (NEC) and fulfills the requirements of Standard UL 1310. Output is limited to 60 volts DC and 100 watts. Because power sources with this rating have limited output, it might not be possible to power as many LEDs or lights as those that don’t have a Class 2 rating. However, these power supplies and drivers provide protection from fire and electric shock.

A Class II rating refers to a double insulation layer between AC input and DC output wires. These drivers and power supplies do not require a ground connection.

If you’ve lived in the Washington, DC area for a while, you know how severe summer rains and winter storms can be. Too often, the result is a power outage that forces you to shut your home office down, puts your refrigerated goods at risk, and can even present a health hazard if someone in your household relies on oxygen to help them breathe. Fortunately, a home generator can bridge that gap between when the power goes out and when your service is restored.

Home generators offer a number of advantages to Maryland, Virginia, and DC homeowners, the largest of which include:

At Kolb Electric, we want to help you keep your electricity running even during the most severe Mid-Atlantic storms. To learn more about installing a standby generator in your Maryland, Northern Virginia, or Washington, DC home, call us at 877 287-1179 or click here to contact us online. We’ve been serving home and building owners in neighborhoods near you since 1925.

By Blake Daniel, Franchisee of Mr. Electric of West Fort Worth

Whether it’s due to thunderstorms in the spring, ice storms in the winter, or blazing heat and power distribution regulation in the summer, the electricity supplied to your home can be unstable at times. This makes your home vulnerable to power surges.

Preventing power surge damage has traditionally been left to the consumer to guess what to do. Do you buy numerous surge protectors and power strips? Do you spend time running around the house during a lightning storm unplugging everything in sight, while putting yourself at risk for electrical shock? Or, do you rely on your homeowner’s insurance policy to cover any power surge losses that may occur?

Now there is no need to worry, you can protect your investments by preventing power surge damage with a Whole House Panel Surge Protector, the heart of industrial protection for your home. There are features not seen in the marketplace until now, creating a main zone of protection and acts as your first line of defense while stopping power surges before they can enter the house through the transmission lines.

As the main line of defense, a Whole House Panel Surge Protector prevents high-energy power surges from ever entering into your home and protects your electrical panel, motor-driven, and other AC-powered appliances in your home against power surge damage.

While this is not a one-unit, full coverage surge protector, as there are many ways in which you can receive a surge, you can be confident that your electrical panel and most electrical items in your house are covered. If you would like more information on how to protect your house from power surges, ask your local Mr. Electric service professional.

An electrical circuit works as a loop where electricity flows from a source and then returns to that point again after powering the device connected to it. The power flow interrupts or stops if the path is broken. There are also receptacles, fixtures, or switches joined to the course through different types of electrical wiring.

Every electrical circuit has a specific breaker or fuse that controls it. Inside the main electrical panel of your house, you will find reference numbers to identify which breaker or fuse is assigned to which circuit. Mapping of them is a standard electrical safety procedure.

power company supplies electricity to your home through the transmission and distribution lines. The energy enters the service panel, also known as the fuse or breaker box, after passing through a meter. Then, the box has three wires (hot, neutral, and ground featuring insulation of different colors) that do the jobs of transmitting the power to an external outlet, returning to the source, and providing the ground.

The wires of your home are generally installed in three ways:

It’s a wiring system where a single electrical circuit supplies power for several devices. There are various housing boxes from where both hot and neutral wires emerge and run along the route. They branch off to single receptacle and fixture.

It’s the most common of all the systems seen in residential settings.

Switch Wiring

Installed on hot wires, such a system has switches that either transmit or break the current flow to various devices or lighting fixtures. A switch changes its position to allow or interrupt the flow of electricity to electrical machines and instruments.

The system routes the hot wire through various fixtures before joining to the neutral one, which then carries the power to the source. It’s the least used and most inconvenient of all the types because it connects the devices, i.e., lights in a series. So, the circuit breaks off when just one light is burnt out.

Parallel wiring is the best option for household settings because it does not break even when one of the connected fixtures goes kaput. Nevertheless, remember not to run too many electronics from one source because each circuit can carry only a maximum electrical flow.