Buying an older house always comes with a certain amount of risk. The history and craftsmanship might be appealing, but even the most attractive aesthetics can hide expensive repair projects.

Frequently, old homes will quickly prove to be in desperate need of carpentry help, re-painting or maybe even an exterminator. Perhaps the most common issue an older property will have is a badly outdated electrical system.

The average American home would've been built in the early 1980s, and many older properties are still being sold. Many of these houses still haven't been rewired to deal with the demands of modern devices and appliances. The evidence will be in sparse electrical outlets, lights dimming when you turn on other appliances or breakers that seem to trip for the smallest electrical loads. If you find yourself taking too many climbs up ladders for blown bulbs or too many trips into the basement to the breaker box, consider overhauling your electrical system

The older your system the bigger the project you'll be looking at. Old houses may lack access to spaces where the wires themselves need to be replaced instead of just rerouted.  Projects like this may have to be done piece-meal over time. Materials alone could cost over $1000.

With our foot firmly in the door of hurricane season in Florida, it’s wise to turn to some prevention and safety in order to prepare your home for potential risks. Our electrical systems stand exposed to (and stand to potentially cause) tons of damage in hurricane weather, and you need to be as equipped as possible in order to stay safe. That’s why the team at Hoffman Electrical has prepared a quick and easy safety guide for your use!

If you’re dying to install your new instructions for how to install a light bar. These instructions include options for installations with or without a wire harness and for connecting to existing LED lights. Installation will vary based on the type of vehicle, existing lighting setup, and chosen wiring method, but these instructions can serve to give you a general idea of the process. Light bar mounting instructions are also available and are listed by WH-DTS10, WWH-DTD30; (ATP) WH-ATPD20, sdoptional mounting brackets; be sure not to overtighten the hardware (you will need to adjust it in step 7).

3. Route the lighting side of the wiring harness from the battery to the light in a safe, secure manner. Connect the harness to the light. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wiring harness is a safe path to follow. Some lights may not have DT or ATP connections on them, but the connectors can be added from the harness kit or purchased separately (ATP-FPT).

4. Continue to route the switch portion of the harness to the desired location of the switch. The switch may need to be unplugged from the harness to make routing of the harness easier. An optional remote-controlled switch (RS-x) are also available with different legends.

5. Connect the black (ground) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the negative battery terminal. Connect the red (power) wire with the large ring terminal from the harness to the positive battery terminal.

6. Secure the relay to a suitable location, and test the light to make sure the circuit works.

7. Finally, aim the light in the desired direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

3. Connect the black ground wire of the new light to the ground wire of the old light with solder and heat shrink tubing (PSC-x). Connect the red power wire of the new light to the power wire of the old light.

4. If the new LED work light or off-road light bar has an ATP or DT connector that you wish to utilize, corresponding ATP (DT-MPT) pigtails are available.

5. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction, and tighten all mounting hardware.

1. Find a suitable mounting location that will allow for running wires and mounting the LED light bar. Mark where your holes will be for the light bar brackets or mounting feet. Check behind drilling locations to ensure nothing will be damaged. Drill appropriate-sized holes.

2. Mount the lights with the provided hardware or with DT-MPT or RRS-SP, RRS-SPx, or RCS-RF25A) under your hood to speed up install time and avoid routing wires through your vehicle’s firewall. Route another run of red wire from the pigtail adapter (connected to the light) to the output terminal of the switch. Be sure to avoid heat sources and any moving parts while running your wires. Prolonged chafing of the wires may lead to a short in the circuit. Typically, following the vehicle manufacturer’s wire harness is a safe path to follow.

4. Be sure to double-check for all obstructions and proper clearance. Drill an appropriate sized hole for the switch, and mount it.

5. Connect your black wire to the negative battery terminal. Connect your red wire to the switch input terminal and to the positive battery terminal with an appropriate-sized fuse holder (MAF-x) installed within 18 inches of the battery. You will have to cut your section of red wire to allow for the fuse holder to be installed between the switch and battery. Connect your other run of red wire to the switch output terminal.

6. Finally, aim the lights in the proper direction and tighten all mounting hardware.